Today we take a trip back in time to the 1893 World's Fair in Chicago, Illinois. The fair was an enormous undertaking that required building a temporary city, organizing tourism, and of course, providing food to audiences. A number of innovations debuted at the fair as well: the Ferris wheel, Wrigley's chewing gum, the zipper and the world's first moving sidewalk. So it is not really a surprise that the fair led to souvenirs that people could purchase to commemorate their visit. One of these was "The 'Home Queen' World's Fair Souvenir Cook Book," which included recipes and advice from two hundred of the so-called "lady managers" for the World's Fair as well as other "ladies of influence."
USU's Merrill-Cazier Library owns a copy in its extensive historic cookbook collection. What is interesting about the book is the clear goal of authors to improve not just cooking of the American home, but its manners and etiquette as well. The emphasis on Progress with a capital "P" at the fair itself translates well to this imposing volume. Perhaps the best place to see this attempt to make Americans more refined is in the multi-page section on "table etiquette." I'll read some excerpts here to illustrate that the history of cooking and food often becomes closely intertwined with the questions of how to prepare and eat and socialize.
As the book reminds readers, "good manners are to the family what good morals are to society, their cement and their security." Thus it is important to model good table etiquette both at the "fireside" and abroad.
First, on the question of cutlery: "The knife and fork, and their uses are a source of trouble to many. The knife is now used only for cutting meat, mashing potatoes, and a few other purposes at table. It is no longer placed in the mouth by those who give attention to table etiquette. The fork is used to convey the food to the mouth, and is held in the left hand, while the cutting is done with the knife in the right." An illustration accompanies these instructions showing a person cutting food with a knife and fork.
Historically, people ate with knives, spoons and fingers – using the knife to spear food. The introduction of the fork is relatively modern. By the 1800s, the upper classes had started using forks, knives and napkins at the table, and it is clear that the authors here felt the working classes in 1893 needed to get on board with this trend.
The 'Home Queen' cookbook also reminds women that if they don't have a servant to bring food to the table just one 'lady member' of the house should convey dishes back and forth. This instruction again says a lot about the audience– people of modest means who don't have servants.
One other interesting section just lists 'suggestions' for the table such as not eating too fast, not dipping bread into gravy, not picking one's teeth at the table, not wiping one's nose with the napkin, and not reaching across a neighbor for a dish. This advice about proper table manners say a lot about what it meant to be cultured in 1893, but it also gives the reader a fascinating glimpse into changing ideals, both at home and in the emerging restaurants at the turn of the 20th century.
Lest one fretted about getting it wrong — the authors note, don't worry just "wait and see what others do, and follow the prevailing mode." That will carry you through any situation.
To view the World's Fair Cookbook or any of the other historic cookbooks, visit the USU Library Special Collections at Merrill-Cazier Library on the Logan campus.
