This is Tammy Proctor, and today on Eating the Past, I want to discuss Kansas, a state I spent a lot of time in as a child. Growing up in Kansas City, Missouri, Kansas was the place we went for certain kinds of shopping, like JCPenney or Houston's Restaurant, or to visit family and friends on that side of the border. As someone who went to the University of Missouri, Kansas was also the location of our hated rival, the University of Kansas.
But one memory I have of trips to or across Kansas is the presence of miles and miles of grain crops. Indigenous groups throughout what became Kansas territory recognized the rich farming potential of the plains, growing corn, beans, squash and sunflowers. The arrival of settlers brought other important crops like cotton and sorghum.
One common sight in the autumn in Kansas are fields of wheat. These rich wheat fields owe their existence to Mennonite settlers who came to the area in the 1870s, bringing a durable and climate hardy strain of wheat called "turkey red." From that small beginning, Kansas emerged as the top wheat producing state in the country. Today, Kansas vies with North Dakota for the top spot, with Kansas producing more in 2021 and North Dakota in 2022.
With that agricultural history in mind, today I thought I would feature johnnycakes as a Kansas staple. Even though these were widely eaten in the eastern and southern United States, sometimes referred to there as "hoe cakes," they have a lasting association with the so-called "pioneer life."
Many people may remember the excerpt from Laura Ingalls Wilder's "Little House on the Prairie" where she and Ma talk about the origins of johnnycakes, wondering if the word might come from "journey" cakes. Whatever the origin of the term, these flat breads were staples for settlers moving to the plains, where grains could be taken on wagons and stored for periods of time.
For those who haven't eaten this delicious food, it's most easily described as a kind of pancake or flapjack. Some people make it entirely with cornmeal, but the versions I know include a mix of wheat flour and corn meal that's cooked flat on a hot greased griddle. I've included such a recipe for johnnycakes from the Kansas Historical Society below.
Why were johnnycakes so popular on the plains? They could be the base of a substantial meal, whether topped with gravy, meat or molasses. The staple grains for the mix were available, and they could be made without eggs or dairy if necessary. They could also be cooked quickly on a hot griddle over an open fire or on a stove. They were fast, nutritious and tasty — what could be better?
Today, johnnycakes have had a bit of a resurgence in high cuisine, and it is not uncommon to see them served topped with pulled pork or with yogurt and fruit as a dessert. They function a bit like Navajo fry bread, creating an edible plate for whatever topping suits you, whether it be a full meal or just a snack. When you eat them, be sure to think about that breadbasket of American agriculture — Kansas.
