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Eating the Past: Mark Twain's comfort food

From Mark Twain’s A Tramp Abroad, 1880 (available at Project Gutenberg:

https://www.gutenberg.org/files/119/119-h/119-h.htm#ch49

It has now been many months, at the present writing, since I have had a nourishing meal, but I shall
soon have one—a modest, private affair, all to myself. I have selected a few dishes, and made out a little
bill of fare, which will go home in the steamer that precedes me, and be hot when I arrive—as follows:

Radishes. Baked apples, with cream

Fried oysters; stewed oysters. Frogs.

American coffee, with real cream.

American butter.

Fried chicken, Southern style.

Porter-house steak.

Saratoga potatoes.

Broiled chicken, American style.

Hot biscuits, Southern style,

Hot wheat-bread, Southern style,

Hot buckwheat cakes.

American toast. Clear maple syrup.

Virginia bacon, broiled.

Blue points, on the half shell.

Cherry-stone clams.

San Francisco mussels, steamed.

Oyster soup. Clam Soup.

Philadelphia Terrapin soup.

Oysters roasted in shell-Northern style.

Soft-shell crabs. Connecticut shad.

Baltimore perch.

Brook trout, from Sierra Nevadas.

Lake trout, from Tahoe.

Sheep-head and croakers, from New Orleans.

Black bass from the Mississippi.

American roast beef.

Roast turkey, Thanksgiving style.

Cranberry sauce. Celery.

Roast wild turkey. Woodcock.

Canvas-back-duck, from Baltimore.

Prairie liens, from Illinois.

Missouri partridges, broiled.

‘Possum. Coon.

Boston bacon and beans.

Bacon and greens, Southern style.

Hominy. Boiled onions. Turnips.

Pumpkin. Squash. Asparagus.

Butter beans. Sweet potatoes.

Lettuce. Succotash. String beans.

Mashed potatoes. Catsup.

Boiled potatoes, in their skins.

New potatoes, minus the skins.

Early rose potatoes, roasted in the ashes, Southern

style, served hot.

Sliced tomatoes, with sugar or vinegar. Stewed

tomatoes.

Green corn, cut from the ear and served with

butter and pepper.

Green corn, on the ear.

Hot corn-pone, with chitlings, Southern style,

Hot hoe-cake, Southern style,

Hot egg-bread, Southern style,

Hot light-bread, Southern style.

Buttermilk. Iced sweet milk.

Apple dumplings, with real cream.

Apple pie, Apple fritters,

Apple puffs, Southern style.

Peach cobbler, Southern style

Peach pie. American mince pie.

Pumpkin pie. Squash pie.

All sorts of American pastry.

Fresh American fruits of all sorts, including strawberries which are not to be doled out as if they were
jewelry, but in a more liberal way.

Ice-water—not prepared in the ineffectual goblet, but in the sincere and capable refrigerator.
Americans intending to spend a year or so in European hotels will do well to copy this bill and carry it
along. They will find it an excellent thing to get up an appetite with, in the dispiriting presence of the

Evelyn Funda is a USU emeritus Professor of English and former Associate Dean, who has always been interested in interdisciplinary approaches. As a long-time scholar of Willa Cather, and the daughter of Czech immigrants, she is presently working on a book about Cather’s fascination with Czech culture and history. She previously co-authored an interdisciplinary humanities textbook called <i>FARM: A Multimodal Reader </i>(with Joyce Kinkead) and authored a memoir about her Czech farming family, entitled <i>Weeds</i>. In her free time, she quilts and gardens and is known among her friends to bake a mean loaf of rye bread and an incredible peach pie. Check out her TEDx talk: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZdbrUBivxA&amp;t=353s">“Farming is the New Sexy”</a>.<br/>
Jamie Sanders is a historian of Latin America at Utah State and his family’s cook. He grew up in the rural South and loves its regional cuisine, but a study abroad trip to the Yucatán when he was a teenager really awakened him to international food culture.